Category: Designs In Concrete

Every spring we get calls from people whose garage floor is coming up with their tires. They did everything the box told them to. They cleaned the slab, they used the etching packet, they rolled it on a warm Saturday and let it sit the recommended time. Two winters later it is peeling off in sheets.

The coating did not fail because they did it wrong. It failed because epoxy is the wrong material for a garage floor in this climate, and no amount of careful application fixes a material mismatch.

That is an annoying answer if you already spent a weekend on it. But it is worth understanding before you spend another one, because the failure is predictable, and so is the fix.

What Actually Kills a Garage Floor Coating

Three things destroy coatings in the Quad Cities, and they arrive together every winter.

Hot tire pickup. Your tires heat up on the drive home. You pull into the garage and park a hot, soft tire against a cured coating. Epoxies typically soften slightly under that heat, and the tire can end up bonded to the coating better than the coating is bonded to the concrete. Back out the next morning and the coating comes with you, in a shape that matches your tire tread. It is the single most recognisable garage floor failure, and it is why the coating you choose matters more than how carefully you rolled it on.

Road salt. Iowa and Illinois DOT crews put down a lot of chloride. You carry it home in the wheel wells and it drips onto your floor as the snow melts. Chlorides attack the bond line between coating and concrete, and they keep working all winter.

Moisture vapor from below. This is the one nobody accounts for. Concrete is not waterproof. Ground moisture moves up through the slab as vapor, constantly. If your slab has no vapor barrier under it, which most garages poured before the mid-1990s do not, that vapor pushes against the underside of whatever you put on top. A coating with low permeability traps it, pressure builds, and the coating lifts. This is why a coating can fail in the middle of the floor where no tire ever parks.

Add freeze-thaw cycling to all three and you have a material problem, not an application problem.

Epoxy vs Polyaspartic: The Real Comparison

Both are called garage floor coatings. They behave nothing alike.

Cure Time and Working Window

Epoxy cures slowly. Product instructions vary, but consumer and trade epoxies typically call for something like 12 to 24 hours between coats, and often around 5 to 7 days before vehicle traffic. Check the specific product, because they differ. In a two-car garage that generally means the better part of a week with your cars sitting outside, in whatever weather is happening.

The Penntek basecoat reaches tack free in roughly 2.5 to 4 hours. The whole system goes down in one working day, and you are back to normal use the following day rather than the following week.

Worth being straight about the details, because they vary. The topcoat’s tack free time swings with the formulation and the weather: the Winter version is 1.5 hours, Summer is 8 hours, and the Extreme Heat version is 10.5 hours. In practice that means we grind and coat in a single day, but when you can walk on it that evening versus the next morning depends on the season. We tell you the actual timeline for your install rather than a slogan. Either way it is one day of work and one night of waiting, against a week of parking outside for epoxy.

Temperature Range

Most epoxies specify a minimum around 55 to 60 degrees, though this varies by product and some winter-grade formulations go lower. Below the rated minimum, epoxy typically cures slowly and soft or does not fully cross-link. For an unheated Quad Cities garage, that generally puts a standard epoxy install somewhere in the May through September window.

Penntek makes three temperature-specific formulations, and the Winter version of the XP 275 basecoat is rated for application from 30 to 60 degrees. That is the practical difference: we are not waiting for a 60 degree week. There is a separate requirement that matters more than air temperature, which is that the floor itself has to be more than 5 degrees above the local dew point, or condensation forms on the slab and the bond suffers. We check that on site.

UV Stability

Standard epoxies tend to amber. Sunlight coming through an open garage door yellows them, unevenly, following the light. A white or light gray epoxy floor can look noticeably dingy within a few years, and it is not dirt, it is the resin itself changing color. UV-stable epoxy formulations do exist, so this is a question to ask about a specific product rather than an absolute rule.

Penntek specifies the NX 300 topcoat for excellent UV stability, and that is the layer taking the sunlight. It also comes off the roller at high gloss, 90 units measured at 60 degrees, which is a mirror finish rather than a sheen.

Abrasion and Chemical Resistance

The topcoat is where the hardness lives. NX 300 reaches a König hardness of 145 seconds at full cure, against 31 seconds for the basecoat underneath it, and Taber abrasion testing on CS-17 wheels under a 1000 gram load shows a loss of 65 milligrams per 1000 cycles. In plain terms, that is a surface built to take dragged toolboxes, dropped wrenches, and tires turning on it.

The two layers are doing different jobs, which is the point of a system. The basecoat is the flexible one, with 95 percent elongation, so it moves with the slab through freeze-thaw. The topcoat is the hard one, at 5 percent elongation and 5000 PSI tensile. Grip and give underneath, armor on top.

Penntek publishes spot testing on the NX 300 topcoat, which is the layer you actually park on and spill on. It is worth being precise about what that data shows rather than waving at “chemical resistant.”

The everyday spills score a 5, meaning no damage, even after 24 hours: motor oil both conventional and synthetic, antifreeze, ice melt at 20 percent, mineral spirits, sodium hydroxide, citric acid, coffee, cola, ketchup, glycerin, and water. For a garage floor in a road salt climate, ice melt scoring no damage after a full day of contact is the number that matters most.

The more useful column is the 30 minute result, because it tells you what happens if you clean up a spill promptly instead of finding it the next morning. Brake fluid rates a 2 at 24 hours but a 5 at 30 minutes. Gasoline goes from a 2 to a 3. Wipe it up and there is no lasting mark. Leave it overnight and there is.

A few things do mark it regardless. Acetone, 30 percent acetic acid, 20 percent hydrochloric acid, and 99 percent isopropyl alcohol all rate a 1 at 24 hours, meaning damage that does not recover. Those are not typical garage spills, but if you run a shop, that is worth knowing. Anyone telling you a coating shrugs off everything is selling, not informing.

Moisture Tolerance

This is the decisive one for older Quad Cities homes, and it is where we have to be careful not to overstate the material.

The two layers test very differently. The NX 300 topcoat comes in at 3.2 perms, which is reasonably breathable. The XP 275 basecoat underneath it is 0.78 perms, which is not. The basecoat is the layer sitting against your concrete, so that is the number that governs, and it means the system is not a membrane that lets your slab freely breathe. Any contractor who tells you polyaspartic solves moisture problems by itself is skipping a step.

What actually protects the floor is testing before we coat. Penntek specifies it: for residential work the slab is checked with a non destructive meter per ASTM F2659, and the reading must not exceed 5.5 percent. Between 5.5 and 6.5 percent the system requires a primer, either NF 450 or Veritek MP, underneath the basecoat. Above 6.5 percent the answer is to consult Penntek technical support rather than proceed. Commercial and industrial slabs get in situ relative humidity testing to ASTM F2170 instead.

On a 1970s slab with no vapor barrier, that testing step is the whole outcome. It determines whether your floor gets a primer, a different system, or a recommendation to fix the moisture source first.

The Honest Case for Epoxy

Epoxy is cheaper per square foot, and on a newer slab in a climate-controlled, heated garage that never sees road salt, it performs acceptably. If you are coating a basement floor or a heated workshop that stays above 55 degrees year round and cars do not drive on it, epoxy is defensible.

That is not most Quad Cities garages.

Why the Preparation Matters More Than the Coating

You can put the best coating in the world on a badly prepared slab and it will fail. Preparation is the majority of what you are paying for, and it is the step DIY kits cannot replicate.

• Diamond grinding, not acid etching. The kits include an etching packet because acid is shippable and grinders are not. Acid roughens the surface unevenly and leaves residue that has to be neutralized and rinsed, which introduces water. We grind mechanically with diamond tooling to open the concrete to a consistent profile across the entire floor. That profile is what the coating mechanically keys into.
• Moisture testing. We test the slab before quoting, to ASTM F2659 on residential work. Under 5.5 percent we proceed. Between 5.5 and 6.5 percent the floor needs a primer under the basecoat. Above that, we stop and talk to Penntek rather than coat it and hope. Skipping this step is how a correctly installed floor fails anyway.
• Crack and joint repair. Cracks get chased out, filled, and made structurally sound before anything is coated. Coating over a moving crack just telegraphs it through the new surface within a season.
• Oil and contaminant remediation. Decades of drips soak into concrete. Contaminated areas get treated and, where necessary, ground deeper. Coating over oil-saturated concrete produces a bond that fails in patches.
• Full vacuum extraction. Grinding produces dust, and dust between the concrete and the coating is a release layer. Everything comes up before the first coat goes down.

If a quote does not describe mechanical grinding, ask what the preparation actually is. The answer tells you most of what you need to know.

What a One-Day Installation Looks Like

• Morning. Everything comes out of the garage. We grind the full floor, chase and fill cracks, and treat contaminated areas. The floor gets vacuumed.
• Midday. Base coat goes down, rolled to a uniform 5 to 6 mils. On a full-flake system the decorative vinyl flake is broadcast into the wet base to refusal, meaning until the surface will not accept any more. This is timed work: Penntek specifies broadcasting within 15 minutes of the mix, so crews mix only what they can place in that window. Broadcasting to refusal is what produces an even appearance rather than a blotchy one.
• Afternoon. Excess flake is scraped and vacuumed, then the NX 300 polyaspartic topcoat goes on, spread with a squeegee and back rolled to 7 to 8 mils. This is the layer you actually walk on, and it carries the gloss, the UV stability, the abrasion resistance, and the chemical resistance.
• That evening or the next morning. Foot traffic, once the topcoat is tack free. In winter conditions that is about 90 minutes after the topcoat goes down. In summer heat it can be 8 to 10 hours, which puts it into the following morning.
• Next day. Park on it.

Details on the process are on our one-day garage floor system page, and the material itself on polyaspartic floor coating.

What to Ask Any Contractor You Call

You do not have to take our word for the preparation argument. Ask whoever you are considering, including us:

• Do you diamond grind or acid etch? Grinding is the answer you want
• Do you moisture test the slab before quoting? If they have not tested, the quote is provisional whether they say so or not
• What exactly does the warranty cover, and who issues it? Product and workmanship are separate. Get both in writing
• Is the topcoat polyaspartic, or is it epoxy with a polyaspartic topcoat? Hybrid systems exist and are sold as polyaspartic floors. They inherit epoxy’s moisture behavior at the bond line
• How many coats, and what is the flake broadcast? Broadcast to refusal produces even coverage. A light broadcast looks sparse and shows wear patterns sooner

A contractor who answers these directly is one you can evaluate. Vague answers about “commercial grade” and “industrial strength” are not specifications, they are adjectives.

Where Kelly Fits

We are the only Penntek certified polyaspartic installer in the Quad Cities. Certification means Penntek trained our crews on their system and stands behind the material when it is installed to their specification.

Penntek coatings carry a limited lifetime warranty on the product. Our installation workmanship is warranted separately by us. Those are two different warranties from two different parties, and any contractor who blurs them together is telling you something imprecise. We will walk you through exactly what each one covers before you sign anything.

We have also been named a LocalsLoveUs award winner for Garage Flooring in the Quad Cities, alongside our #1 Concrete Contractor ranking.

What that adds up to in practice: 500+ projects completed since 1979, and 30+ team members averaging more than ten years with us. The crew grinding your floor has done this work for years, on this side of the river, in these winters.

We serve Davenport, Bettendorf, Rock Island, Moline, Silvis, Milan, and East Moline. See service areas for your city.

Living With a Polyaspartic Floor

People ask what the upkeep is, expecting a list. It is genuinely short.

Sweep it or blow it out when it gets gritty, because grit underfoot is the only thing that will meaningfully abrade the surface over years. Wet mop with warm water when it needs it. A neutral pH cleaner is fine for oil or grease.

What to avoid is a shorter list still. Do not use products containing citrus or acid, which can dull the finish over time. Do not drag steel toolbox corners or jack stands across it without something underneath, because impact resistance and gouge resistance are not the same property. If you do body work or run a welder in the garage, put a mat down where sparks land.

Road salt does not need to be scrubbed off urgently the way it does on bare concrete. The coating is what the salt is sitting on, and it is not absorbing anything. Rinse it when convenient.

There is nothing to reseal and nothing to strip and reapply. That is the practical difference from a sealed or polished bare slab, which needs periodic re-treatment. A correctly installed polyaspartic floor is finished.

One Thing to Check First

A coating is a surface treatment. If your slab itself is failing, spalling, heaving, or cracked through, a coating will not fix that and will not last on it.

If your garage floor has deep structural cracking or sections at different heights, the honest answer is that you are looking at concrete replacement first, then a coating on the new slab. We will tell you that when we come out rather than taking the coating job and letting you discover it in two years.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does a polyaspartic garage floor cost in the Quad Cities?

It depends on square footage, the current condition of the slab, and how much crack repair and contaminant remediation the floor needs. A clean two-car slab quotes very differently from one with oil saturation and structural cracking. We do not publish a per-square-foot number because a figure without seeing the floor is a guess. We look at it and give you a written price before any work starts. The estimate is free.

Can you really do it in one day?

Yes, the installation is a single day. Grind, repair, basecoat, flake, and topcoat all happen in one visit. When you can use it depends on the season: Penntek’s topcoat is tack free in 1.5 hours in winter conditions and 8 to 10.5 hours in summer heat, so foot traffic is either that evening or the next morning, and vehicles the day after. We give you the specific timeline before we start.

Will polyaspartic peel like my epoxy did?

Not from the causes that took out the epoxy. It does not soften under hot tires, and ice melt at 20 percent rates no damage on the NX 300 topcoat after 24 hours of contact. The other half of the answer is preparation. Penntek’s published adhesion figure is greater than 500 PSI, and the note beside it is that the concrete failed before the bond did. You only get that from mechanical diamond grinding over a moisture tested slab, which is exactly what an acid etch kit cannot do.

Can you install in winter?

Often, yes. Penntek supplies a Winter formulation of the basecoat rated for 30 to 60 degree application, so we are not limited to summer the way an epoxy install is. The constraint we actually check is dew point: the slab has to be more than 5 degrees above it. In a deep cold snap we may recommend waiting. We will tell you honestly which it is when we look at the floor.

What does the limited lifetime warranty actually cover?

Penntek’s limited lifetime warranty covers the coating product itself. Kelly warrants the installation workmanship separately. They are two distinct warranties and we will go through the specific terms of each with you before you commit, in writing.

Do I have to move everything out of my garage?

Yes, the floor has to be completely clear to grind and coat it. We will tell you what needs to happen before we arrive so the day goes smoothly.

What if my concrete is cracked or in bad shape?

We assess that before quoting a coating. Normal cracks get repaired as part of preparation. If the slab is structurally failing, we will tell you it needs replacement first rather than coating over a problem.

How is this different from a big-box epoxy kit?

Different material, and different preparation. The kit is epoxy with an acid etch. We install polyaspartic over a mechanically ground profile, after moisture testing and crack repair. The kit is a weekend; this is a system.

If Your Floor Is Peeling, Get It Looked At

If your coating is lifting, it will keep lifting. Water gets under the loose edges, and every freeze widens the failure. It does not stabilize on its own.

Call (563) 388-9529 or request an estimate. We are open Monday through Thursday, 7am to 4pm, and Friday 7am to noon.

We will tell you whether you need a coating, a repair, or a new slab, including when the answer is that your floor is fine and you should leave it alone.

New. Remove. Improve.

Most people do not call a concrete contractor the first time they notice a crack. They notice it in April, decide it can wait, and then notice it again the following April, a little wider. That is not procrastination. That is a completely reasonable response to a question nobody has answered for them: is this normal aging, or is this the beginning of something expensive?

We get that call every week, usually from someone standing in their driveway holding a phone, apologizing for not knowing what they are looking at. You do not need to apologize. Concrete is one of the few things on your property that fails slowly enough to be easy to ignore and fast enough to surprise you.

This guide is meant to give you the same read on your slab that we would give you in person, so that whatever you decide, you decide it on purpose.

What Concrete Is Actually Telling You

Concrete does not fail randomly. It fails in patterns, and each pattern points to a different cause underneath.

The single most useful thing to understand is this: the slab is rarely the real problem. The slab is the messenger. What is happening below it, in the compacted base and the soil beneath that, is usually the story.

In eastern Iowa and western Illinois we get roughly 100 freeze-thaw cycles in an average winter. Water gets into the concrete, expands about nine percent when it freezes, and pushes the material apart from the inside. Do that a hundred times a year for twenty years and the surface starts to give up. Add road salt, which accelerates the process, and you have the Quad Cities concrete lifecycle in a sentence.

How Do I Read the Damage on My Own Slab?

Here is what different damage patterns typically mean:

• Hairline cracks in a fairly straight line are usually shrinkage cracks from the original cure. Common, mostly cosmetic, and often not urgent on their own
• Cracks wider than a quarter inch, especially with one side sitting higher than the other, point to movement in the base. This is settlement, and it will continue
• Spalling, where the top surface flakes, pits, or peels away like the skin of an orange, means the concrete itself is deteriorating from freeze-thaw and salt exposure. Surface repair on a spalling slab is temporary by definition
• A network of interconnected cracks resembling a dried lakebed is called map cracking or crazing, and it indicates the slab has lost structural integrity across its area
• Standing water that sits for more than a day after rain means the slope has changed. Water that does not leave is water working its way underneath
• Sections that rock, tip, or sound hollow underfoot mean there is now a void beneath the slab. The base has washed out or settled away

If you have one crack, you likely have a repair. If you have three or more of the signs above appearing together, you are looking at a slab whose foundation has moved, and no surface treatment fixes a foundation problem.

Repair or Replace: An Honest Comparison

We repair concrete. We also remove and replace it. We have no incentive to push you toward the larger job, and we would rather tell you to wait two years than sell you something that will not solve your problem.

Here is the framework we actually use.

When Does Repair Make Sense?

• The damage is isolated to one or two areas rather than spread across the surface
• The slab sits level, with no rocking, tipping, or height differences between sections
• Cracks are narrow and stable, meaning they have not measurably widened over a couple of seasons
• The surface is sound, with no widespread flaking or pitting
• The concrete is under roughly twenty years old and was well installed to begin with
• The problem is a trip hazard at a joint, which can often be ground flush rather than replaced at all

That last point deserves emphasis, because it saves people real money. A raised edge where two sidewalk sections meet is the most common defect we see, and it is frequently solvable without breaking anything. Our concrete trip hazard removal service grinds the high side down to a smooth transition, virtually dust free, usually in a single visit. If your sidewalk is otherwise in good shape and the only issue is a lip you keep catching your toe on, start there, not with replacement.

When Does Replacement Make Sense?

• Damage appears across the majority of the surface rather than in one spot
• Multiple sections have settled to different heights
• The surface is actively spalling and losing material each season
• Drainage has reversed and water now flows toward your home or garage
• You have already repaired this area once and the same failure has returned
• The slab has voids beneath it, or sounds hollow when walked on
• The concrete is roughly thirty years old or more and showing several signs at once

The honest math matters here. When repair costs approach half the price of replacement, and the underlying cause has not been addressed, replacement is nearly always the better value. A repair buys you two to five years on a compromised slab. A properly installed replacement, with the base rebuilt underneath it, is a thirty-year decision.

There is one more question we ask every homeowner: how long do you plan to be in this house? If the answer is two years, we will talk about the most cost-effective way to make the property safe and presentable. If the answer is twenty, spending money twice on the same slab rarely makes sense.

Driveways: The Highest-Stress Concrete on Your Property

Your driveway carries more weight, more thermal cycling, and more salt than anything else you own in concrete. It is also the first thing anyone sees.

Why Do Driveways Fail First?

A residential driveway takes the full load of vehicles, delivery trucks, and occasionally a dumpster or a moving truck the original installer never planned for. Meanwhile the surface is fully exposed to sun, rain, snow, and every bag of ice melt applied to it.

The most common failures we see in Davenport, Bettendorf, and across the river:

• Edge crumbling, where the outer twelve inches break away because the slab was poured without adequate edge thickness or base support
• Settlement near the garage apron, often because backfill around the foundation was never properly compacted when the house was built
• Longitudinal cracking down the length of the drive, typically from insufficient thickness for the loads it carries
• Deterioration at the street, where snowplow contact and municipal salt hit hardest

What Does Proper Driveway Replacement Involve?

This is where contractors genuinely differ, and where the invisible work determines whether you get twelve years or forty.

• Full removal and haul-off. The old slab comes out completely. Pouring new concrete over old is a shortcut that transfers every existing problem into the new surface
• Base evaluation and rebuild. This is the step that separates a lasting driveway from an expensive one. We excavate to proper depth, evaluate what is actually under there, and rebuild with compacted granular base. If the base caused the original failure and the base is not corrected, the new slab will fail the same way
• Correct thickness for actual use. A residential driveway should be a minimum of four inches. Where trucks, RVs, or trailers park, more. Thickness is not where to economize
• Reinforcement. Rebar or wire mesh, placed properly within the slab rather than laid on the ground and poured over, which does nothing
• Proper jointing. Control joints cut at the right depth and spacing tell the concrete where to crack. Concrete will crack. Good jointing means it cracks where you planned instead of across the middle of your drive
• Drainage and slope. Water must move away from your foundation and garage. We set slope deliberately, because a driveway that drains toward the house creates a much more expensive problem than the one you started with
• Proper curing. Concrete does not dry, it cures through a chemical reaction, and that reaction needs time and moisture control. Rushing it produces a weak surface that spalls early

Full detail on our approach is on the concrete driveways page.

What Should I Consider While the Driveway Is Open?

If you are already replacing, this is the moment to consider whether you want plain gray or something better. Stamped concrete and decorative concrete finishes cost meaningfully less when integrated into a pour you are already doing than they ever will as a future project. Our graduate landscape architect on staff can show you how the driveway relates to the rest of your property before anything is poured. That is not a service most concrete contractors offer, and it is the difference between a replaced driveway and a genuinely improved one.

Sidewalks and Walkways: Where Safety Enters the Picture

Sidewalks carry almost no weight compared to a driveway. They fail for a different reason, and they carry a different kind of risk.

Am I Liable for the Sidewalk in Front of My House?

If someone falls on the public sidewalk in front of your home or business, responsibility may fall on you. Many Quad Cities municipalities place sidewalk maintenance on the adjacent property owner, and cities do issue repair notices with deadlines attached.

This is not meant to alarm you. It is meant to reframe a project that often gets deferred as cosmetic. A raised sidewalk edge is a safety issue with a deadline, not a landscaping preference. For commercial properties there is an additional dimension, since walkways serving the public generally need to meet ADA accessibility standards, including vertical changes limited to a quarter inch. Our ADA compliance concrete grinding service exists specifically for that requirement.

Why Do Sidewalks Move?

• Tree roots are the leading cause. A maturing root system lifts sections several inches over time
• Base washout, where water traveling alongside the walk carries away the supporting material until the section drops
• Freeze-thaw heaving, which lifts and lowers sections through the winter until they no longer sit level with each other
• Original installation on uncompacted fill, which settles gradually for years afterward

Should I Grind or Replace an Uneven Sidewalk?

For sidewalks the choice is genuinely close, so here is our plain answer.

Grinding is the right call when the sections are sound and the only problem is a height difference at the joints. It is faster, costs a fraction of replacement, creates no debris to haul away, is virtually dust free, and eliminates the hazard the same day. If your walk is structurally fine but uneven, grinding is not the cheap option, it is the correct one.

Replacement is the right call when sections are cracked through, crumbling, badly sloped, or so lifted that grinding would remove too much material to leave adequate thickness. Roots that have destroyed a section rather than simply lifted it require replacement, and root management as part of the work.

We will tell you which one you have. Sometimes the answer is both, replacing two failed sections and grinding the rest. See concrete sidewalks and concrete walkways for how each is handled.

Timing Your Project in the Quad Cities

Concrete is seasonal work, and our climate narrows the window more than people expect.

• Spring, April through June, is prime season. Temperatures are workable and the slab has months to cure before its first freeze. It is also when everyone else calls, so schedules fill
• Summer works well, though extreme heat requires adjusted practices to keep concrete from curing too quickly at the surface
• Early fall, through roughly mid-October, is often the best-kept secret. Ideal curing temperatures, and schedules have loosened after the summer rush
• Late fall and winter are constrained. Concrete needs sustained temperatures above about 40 degrees to cure properly, and once ground frost sets in, base preparation becomes unreliable

The practical takeaway: if you notice a problem in fall, call then rather than waiting for spring. You may fit into the current season, and if you do not, you are near the front of the spring schedule instead of somewhere in the middle of it.

Why Quad Cities Homeowners Choose Kelly

We have been doing this in the Quad Cities since 1979. Forty-seven years in one market means our work is inspectable, and a fair amount of it is still in the ground doing its job.

• 500+ projects completed, across residential and commercial properties throughout the region
• 30+ team members averaging more than ten years with us. The crew at your house is not a rotating cast of subcontractors
• BBB Accredited Business with an A+ rating
• LocalsLoveUs #1 Concrete Contractor in the Quad Cities
• A graduate landscape architect on staff, so your concrete can be planned in relation to your whole property rather than in isolation
• We do the full range, so our recommendation is not shaped by which service we happen to sell. We grind, we repair, and we replace. That means we can genuinely tell you when replacement is unnecessary

We serve Davenport, Bettendorf, Rock Island, Moline, Silvis, Milan, and East Moline. Find your city on our service areas page.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long should a concrete driveway last in the Quad Cities?

A properly installed driveway with an adequate compacted base typically lasts 30 or more years here. Ones that fail at 12 to 15 years almost always failed at the base, not the surface. Freeze-thaw cycling and road salt are the two factors that most shorten that lifespan.

Can you pour new concrete over an existing driveway?

We do not recommend it. Overlaying traps whatever caused the original failure underneath, and the new surface generally cracks along the same lines within a few years. It also raises the grade, which can interfere with garage door clearance and change how water drains.

Is grinding really as good as replacing a raised sidewalk section?

For a height difference at a joint, yes, provided the sections themselves are sound. Grinding removes the hazard permanently and leaves a smooth transition. What it cannot do is repair a section that is cracked through or crumbling. We assess and tell you which situation you have.

How long before I can drive on a new driveway?

Foot traffic is generally fine after 24 to 48 hours. Passenger vehicles typically after 7 days. Heavy vehicles, trailers, or RVs should wait a full 28 days, when concrete reaches its designed strength. We give you the specific timeline for your pour, since weather affects it.

Will new concrete match my existing concrete?

New concrete will be lighter and will not match immediately. It lightens as it cures, then gradually weathers toward the surrounding surfaces over one to two years. If matching matters, we can discuss color options during planning.

Am I responsible for the public sidewalk in front of my property?

In most Quad Cities municipalities, yes, maintenance of the adjacent public sidewalk falls to the property owner, and cities do issue notices with compliance deadlines. Rules vary between Iowa and Illinois jurisdictions, so check with your city. If you have received a notice, bring it when we come out.

Do you provide free estimates?

Yes. We come out, look at the actual conditions, and give you a written estimate. If we think you should repair rather than replace, or wait a season, we will tell you that.

The Next Step Is Just a Look

You do not have to decide anything today. What is genuinely worth doing is finding out what you are actually dealing with, because the difference between a grinding job and a full replacement is large, and you cannot reliably tell which one you have from a photo.

Call (563) 388-9529 or request an estimate online. We are open Monday through Thursday, 7am to 4pm, and Friday 7am to noon.

Whether the answer is replacement, a repair, or leaving it alone for another two years, you will know where you stand. That is worth a phone call on its own.

New. Remove. Improve.

If you’ve been researching garage floor coatings, you’ve probably done what most Quad Cities homeowners do: ask around, read threads online, get a couple of quotes, and end up more confused than when you started. The prices don’t match. One contractor says epoxy, another says polyurea. One quotes $900, another quotes $4,000 for the same floor.

Here’s the short version: the coating material matters, but prep is everything. A cheap job done wrong will peel, flake, and fail within a year. A good job done right will last decades. The difference between those two outcomes almost always comes down to one thing that never shows up in the brochure.

What Is Diamond Grinding and Why Does It Determine Everything?

Before any coating touches your slab, the concrete has to be prepared. Diamond grinding is the industry-standard method for opening up the concrete surface so the coating can bond to it. A diamond-embedded disc on a grinder mechanically abrades the top layer of the slab, removing laitance (the weak surface film that forms when concrete cures), contaminants, and old sealers.

The alternative is acid etching, which some contractors use because it’s faster and cheaper. The problem is that acid etching is inconsistent. It doesn’t create the uniform surface profile that grinding does, and on a slab that’s been sealed, stained by oil, or poured with a tight finish, etching often does almost nothing.

Homeowners who’ve been through bad installs describe it clearly: “The prep work is more important than the product itself.” And: “Bad prep equals a bad floor.” That’s not exaggeration. It’s what we see when we’re called out to redo a floor that was done by someone who skipped grinding.

What to ask any contractor before you sign:

• What is your prep method?
• Do you use diamond grinding or acid etching?
• What grit are your grinding discs?
• Do you use a HEPA vacuum during grinding?

If they hesitate on any of those, or if “grind” isn’t the first word out of their mouth when you ask about prep, keep looking.

Epoxy vs. Polyurea vs. Polyaspartic: Which One Do You Actually Want?

This is where most homeowners get lost. The coating market is full of overlapping terminology, and contractors don’t always help by using the terms interchangeably when they’re not the same product.

Here’s a straight comparison:

Polyurea and polyaspartic coatings have largely replaced epoxy as the professional standard for garage floors. Both cure faster, handle temperature swings better, and resist UV yellowing. In a Midwest climate, this matters. Eastern Iowa winters mean temperature cycling, road salt tracked in on tires, and moisture from snow melt. Epoxy doesn’t love any of that.

The real-world consensus from homeowners who’ve lived with these floors: “Do the poly, it’s much stronger and lasts longer if you can afford it.”

What “one-day coating” means: A professional polyurea or polyaspartic system can be fully installed and cured in a single day because the cure time is measured in hours, not days. You drive your car back in that evening. That’s a genuine advantage of the newer coating chemistries, not just a marketing claim.

What Does Garage Floor Coating Actually Cost in Eastern Iowa?

Price is where homeowners hit the most friction. The range is wide, and the reasons for it aren’t always obvious.

The general market range for a professionally installed polyurea or polyaspartic system runs $7 to $9 per square foot as a national benchmark, which maps closely to what Midwest installers charge for a correctly spec’d job. A standard two-car garage (400-500 sq ft) typically falls between $3,000 and $4,500 depending on the condition of the slab, the chip pattern chosen, and whether any crack repair or leveling is needed before coating.

What drives price up:

• Slab in poor condition requiring significant prep work
• Leveling or crack injection before coating
• Custom chip blends or metallic finishes
• Larger garage footprints (triple car, tandem bays)

What makes a quote suspiciously low:

• No mention of grinding (they’re etching instead)
• No HEPA vacuum during grinding (creates bonding problems)
• No warranty, or a very short one
• Single-coat application (a quality system uses a base coat, broadcast, and top coat)

A quote at $900 for a two-car garage is a red flag, not a deal. That price point typically means cut corners on prep, thin material coverage, or a product that won’t hold up to a Midwest winter. “Run far away from the $900 quote” is blunt advice, but it comes from people who learned the hard way.

How Do Iowa Winters Affect Your Garage Floor Coating?

This is a specific concern for Eastern Iowa homeowners that generic coating content doesn’t address honestly.

The main threats to a coated floor in a Midwest climate are:

• Freeze-thaw cycles acting on the slab beneath the coating
• Road salt and deicers tracked in on vehicles
• Snow melt pooling on the floor before it drains or evaporates

A properly installed polyurea system handles all of these well. The coating bonds tightly enough to move with minor slab flexing, it’s chemically resistant to salt and deicers, and the sealed surface prevents moisture from wicking into the concrete.

The key caveat is installation temperature. Most coating systems have a minimum application temperature, usually around 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Installers working in Iowa need to plan around that window. Spring and fall are ideal. Midsummer works. Installing in an unheated garage in February is a mistake regardless of what the product label claims.

Moisture in the slab is the other factor. A slab that hasn’t fully cured, or one with an active vapor transmission problem, will cause bonding failure even with perfect surface prep. A competent installer tests for moisture before coating. If yours doesn’t mention it, ask.

What Does a Legitimate Estimate Look Like?

Homeowners consistently report the same frustration: quotes that are a single number with no explanation of what’s included. Here’s what a transparent, line-item estimate should cover:

• Square footage being coated (measure it yourself so you can verify)
• Prep method specified (diamond grinding, grit level)
• Base coat product name and coverage rate
• Chip blend or decorative layer
• Top coat product name, coverage rate, and thickness
• Warranty terms (labor and material, separate or combined)
• Timeline and number of days to completion
• What’s excluded (e.g., slab repair, expansion joint sealing)

If crack repair or leveling is needed, that should be a separate line item with its own price, not buried in the base quote. A good contractor will tell you what they’re seeing before you commit.

Common Mistakes Homeowners Make When Hiring a Coating Contractor

Getting only one quote. Prices vary significantly enough that a single quote gives you no frame of reference. Get at least three.

Choosing on price alone. The cheapest bid is almost never the best value in this category. Prep shortcuts and thin material aren’t visible in the quote, but they show up six months after installation.

Not asking about the warranty. A warranty tells you how confident the contractor is in their own work. A one-year warranty on a product that should last 15 to 20 years is not a strong signal. Ask what the warranty covers, for how long, and whether it’s transferable if you sell the house.

Skipping the moisture test. Ask whether your installer tests for moisture vapor transmission before applying a coating. It’s a quick test and a legitimate step. Skipping it on a slab with moisture issues leads to delamination.

Assuming all polyurea products are equal. They’re not. There are commercial-grade polyurea products and consumer-grade ones. Ask your installer what brand they’re using and whether they can show you the technical data sheet.

Why Local Experience Matters for Quad Cities Floors

Eastern Iowa slabs have their own character. The soil conditions in the Quad Cities area, combined with the temperature cycling common to the Mississippi River corridor, mean that slabs here settle and move differently than in drier climates. A contractor who’s been working in Davenport, Bettendorf, Moline, and Rock Island for years has seen more local slab behavior than someone who just brought a national franchise to town.

Kelly Designs in Concrete has been working with Quad Cities concrete since before garage floor coatings were a product category. We’ve seen what proper prep looks like, what corners look like when they’re cut, and what a floor looks like five years after each kind of installation. When we quote a job, we tell you what we’re going to do and why.

Frequently Asked Questions About Garage Floor Coating

How long does a polyurea garage floor coating last?

A professionally installed polyurea system applied over a properly prepared slab will typically last 15 to 20 years with normal residential use. Longevity depends heavily on prep quality, the number of coats applied, and the product used. Systems with a commercial-grade top coat and a broadcast decorative layer generally outperform single-coat epoxy by a wide margin.

Can you coat a garage floor in winter in Iowa?

Most coating systems require a minimum ambient and surface temperature of around 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In an unheated garage, that limits installation to the warmer months in Eastern Iowa. If your garage is heated or insulated, winter installation may be possible, but your contractor should confirm surface and substrate temps before proceeding.

What happens if the coating starts to peel?

Peeling almost always traces back to adhesion failure caused by inadequate prep, an incompatible product applied over an existing coating, or a moisture problem in the slab. If the floor was installed correctly with diamond grinding and the slab was clean and dry at the time of application, peeling is rare. If it does occur within the warranty period, the contractor is responsible for the repair.

Is a one-day coating the same quality as a multi-day installation?

Yes, when polyurea or polyaspartic products are used. These systems are engineered for fast cure times. The quality is determined by the prep, the product, and the installation technique, not the number of days the job takes.

Do I need to move everything out of my garage?

Yes. The floor needs to be fully cleared for grinding and coating. Your installer can usually help you plan the logistics, and because the cure time on polyurea is measured in hours, you can typically return vehicles to the garage the same evening.

What is the difference between flake and solid color coatings?

A flake system uses vinyl flake broadcast over a wet base coat, then sealed with a clear top coat. It hides imperfections well, adds texture for slip resistance, and is the most popular residential finish. Solid color systems are cleaner-looking but show imperfections in the slab more clearly and can feel slippery when wet without an anti-slip additive.

Ready to Get a Straight Answer on Your Garage Floor?

Kelly Designs in Concrete serves the Quad Cities area, including Davenport, Bettendorf, Moline, and Rock Island. We use diamond grinding on every job. We test for moisture. We give you a line-item quote with product names, not a single number and a handshake. Our polyurea installations come with a warranty worth reading.

Call us at (563) 388-9529 or see our garage floor coating services to request a free estimate.

Protecting Your Investment from the Quad Cities Freeze

Happy New Year from all of us at Kelly Designs in Concrete. If you are looking out your window in Davenport or Bettendorf this morning, you know exactly what season it is. It is January in Iowa and Illinois, which means we are in the thick of snow, ice, and temperatures that fluctuate wildly.

We love concrete. It is durable, beautiful, and adds massive value to your home. However, winter is the number one enemy of any concrete surface. Whether you have a standard broom-finished driveway or a decorative stamped patio we installed last summer, the rules for winter care are the same.

You need to know how to handle the freeze-thaw cycle to keep your concrete looking pristine for spring 2026. Here is what you need to know about maintenance right now.

Understanding the Freeze-Thaw Cycle

Concrete is strong, but it is also porous. Think of it like a very hard, dense sponge. It has tiny capillaries that can absorb moisture. When snow melts on your driveway during a sunny afternoon, that water seeps into those tiny pores. When the sun goes down and the temperature drops below freezing, that trapped water turns into ice.

Water expands by about 9% when it freezes. This expansion creates internal pressure within the concrete slab. If that pressure exceeds the tensile strength of the concrete, you get flaking, spalling (where the top layer pops off), or cracking.

This is what we call the freeze-thaw cycle. In the Quad Cities, we might go through dozens of these cycles in a single winter. This constant expanding and contracting is stress testing your driveway every single day.

The Truth About De-Icing Salts

This is the most common question we get asked every winter: “What can I put on my driveway to melt the ice?”

We have to be honest with you. Most chemical de-icers are bad for concrete. They might clear the ice, but they accelerate the damage.

Why Salt Causes Damage

Sodium chloride (standard rock salt) lowers the freezing point of water. This increases the number of freeze-thaw cycles your concrete experiences. Instead of staying frozen (which is actually safer for the concrete), the ice melts and refreezes rapidly as the concentration of salt changes.

Furthermore, salt is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts and holds water. This keeps your concrete wetter for longer, increasing the saturation level.

What to Avoid

If you have concrete that was poured less than one year ago, do not use salt. Your concrete is still curing and hardening. Salt on fresh concrete is a recipe for surface pitting. Avoid products containing:

• Ammonium nitrate
• Ammonium sulfate
• Sodium chloride (on new concrete)

These fertilizers and salts chemically attack the concrete paste itself.

Safe Alternatives for Traction

The safest approach for your concrete is to focus on traction rather than melting. We recommend using plain sand or even kitty litter. These materials provide grip for your tires and boots without causing a chemical reaction or increasing freeze-thaw cycles.

If you must use a de-icer on older concrete, look for products containing calcium chloride. It works at lower temperatures and tends to be less damaging than rock salt, though it should still be used sparingly.

Smart Snow Removal Techniques

How you remove the snow matters just as much as what you put on it. We know metal shovels are great for breaking up ice, but they are terrible for your finish.

Using a metal blade to chip away at ice can leave gouges and scratches in the surface sealant. This is especially true for decorative, stamped, or colored concrete where the surface texture is part of the design. Once you scratch that sealer, you open a doorway for water to get in.

The Fix: Switch to a plastic shovel with a plastic blade. If you use a snowblower, make sure the skid shoes are adjusted properly so the metal auger isn’t grinding against your driveway.

The Importance of Sealing

The absolute best defense against winter damage is a high-quality sealer. Sealing your concrete creates a barrier that prevents water from soaking into those pores we talked about earlier. If the water can’t get in, it can’t freeze and expand inside the slab.

Ideally, sealing is done in the warmer months. If you noticed your driveway absorbing water this fall (it turns dark when wet) rather than beading up, it is time to put sealing on your to-do list for spring.

Regular sealing (every 2 to 3 years) extends the life of your concrete significantly. It protects the color, prevents staining from oil or dirt, and stops that freeze-thaw damage in its tracks.

Planning for Spring 2026

While we are currently bundling up against the cold, spring will be here before we know it. If you are noticing cracks or surface damage now, keep an eye on them. We can assess any winter damage once the snow clears.

If you have been dreaming of a new patio, walkway, or pool deck for this summer, winter is actually the perfect time to start the design process. Our schedule fills up incredibly fast once the ground thaws. By planning now, you ensure you are first on the list when the weather breaks.

Stay warm, drive safe, and keep that salt off your new concrete.

Need help assessing winter damage or planning a new project? Contact Kelly Designs in Concrete at (563) 388-9529.

Common misconceptions about home improvement often dictate that major projects must wait for the warm breeze of spring. This is especially true for anything involving concrete. Most homeowners in Davenport and the surrounding Quad Cities assume that once the first snowflake hits the ground, their garage renovation dreams are frozen until May. We are here to tell you that this is simply not true.

Thanks to advancements in chemical technology and the unique properties of polyaspartic coatings, winter is actually an excellent time to upgrade your garage flooring. In fact, waiting until spring might leave your concrete vulnerable to the harsh Iowa elements when it needs protection the most. At Kelly Designs in Concrete, we want to help you understand the science behind cold-weather installation and why tackling this project now is a smart move for your home.

The Myth: “I Have to Wait Until Spring”

The belief that you cannot coat a concrete floor in winter stems from the limitations of older technologies. Traditional epoxy floor coatings are very temperamental. They generally require temperatures above 55°F to bond correctly to the concrete substrate. If you try to apply standard epoxy in an unheated Iowa garage in January, the chemical reaction needed to cure the product will stall. The result is a gooey mess that never fully hardens or a brittle coating that peels up within a year.

However, coating technology has evolved significantly. We use advanced polyaspartic polyurea systems. These are not the same as the DIY kits you see at the big box store. These industrial-grade coatings are engineered to perform in extreme conditions. They cure rapidly and effectively in temperatures as low as -30°F. While we certainly hope it does not get that cold in your garage, it proves a point. The cold weather that shuts down other contractors does not stop us from delivering a showroom-quality floor.

Why Polyaspartic Coatings Love the Cold

To understand why we can install in winter, you have to look at the chemistry. Polyaspartic coatings cure through a different reaction than epoxies. They are designed for rapid curing and high thermal stability. This means the cold air does not inhibit the cross-linking process that gives the floor its strength.

In the summer, high humidity can sometimes be a challenge for certain coatings because moisture in the air accelerates the cure time too much. In the winter, the air in the Quad Cities is typically drier. This lower humidity can actually be beneficial during the application process. It allows the material to flow out smoothly and bond aggressively to the concrete before it sets. The result is a consistent, durable finish that looks just as good as one installed in July.

3 Reasons to Upgrade Your Floor *Now*

Beyond the fact that it is *possible* to install these floors in winter, there are compelling reasons why you *should* do it. Protecting your investment and improving your quality of life during the dreary months are top of the list.

1. Protection Against Road Salt and Brine

Living in Eastern Iowa means dealing with snow, ice, and the chemicals used to treat the roads. The magnesium chloride and rock salt that keep our streets safe are absolute poison for your concrete. When you pull your car into the garage, that frozen slush melts and drips onto your floor. This salty brine seeps into the pores of raw concrete.

As the temperature in your garage fluctuates, that water freezes and expands inside the concrete. This creates internal pressure that leads to pitting, spalling, and surface cracks. Over a single winter, a pristine concrete slab can start to look like the surface of the moon. By installing a polyaspartic garage floor coating now, you create an impermeable, waterproof barrier. The salt and slush sit harmlessly on top of the coating, where they can be squeegeed away without ever touching your concrete.

2. Safety in Wet Conditions

A wet, smooth concrete floor is a slip hazard. This danger increases when you are tracking in snow or wearing boots with less traction. Our polyaspartic systems include a decorative flake texture that does more than just look good. It adds a crucial layer of grip to the surface. This texture provides traction underfoot, making your garage safer for you and your family when navigating around wet vehicles. You do not have to tiptoe across a slick slab every time you get out of the car.

3. Beating the Spring Rush

Spring is the busiest season for the construction and home improvement industry. As soon as the grass turns green, our phones start ringing off the hook with homeowners wanting patios, driveways, and garage floors. By scheduling your installation in the winter, you avoid the long lead times that often come with the spring rush. You can get on the schedule quickly, get the job done, and have your garage ready for spring projects before anyone else has even made a phone call.

Our One-Day Winter Process

You might be worried that a winter installation means leaving your garage door open for days, turning your home into an icebox. We understand that concern, but our process is designed to minimize disruption.

Because polyaspartic coatings cure so fast, we can typically complete the entire installation in just one day. Here is how we handle a winter install:

• Preparation: We start by mechanically grinding the top layer of your concrete. This opens the pores and removes stains. We use dust-collection systems to keep your space clean.
• Repair: We fix cracks and pits using fast-setting repair materials that work in the cold.
• Base Coat & Flake: We apply the base coat and broadcast the decorative flakes until the floor is fully covered.
• Top Coat: After scraping the excess flake, we apply the polyaspartic top coat. This clear layer provides UV stability and chemical resistance.

The best part is the downtime. You can usually walk on the floor in 4 to 6 hours and drive on it in 24 hours. You do not have to park your car in the driveway for a week waiting for the floor to dry. We get you back into your garage quickly.

Ready to Reclaim Your Garage?

Do not let the gray skies of winter keep you from improving your home. Your garage is a massive part of your home’s square footage, and it deserves to be protected. A new floor adds value, beauty, and crucial protection against the harsh Iowa winter.

Kelly Designs in Concrete has been serving the Quad Cities area for over 40 years. We know concrete, and we know how to handle Iowa weather. If you are ready to say goodbye to dusty, pitted concrete and hello to a durable, easy-to-clean surface, let’s talk.

Schedule your free estimate today and find out how easy it is to transform your garage this winter.

Stamped Concrete Quad Cities: The Ultimate Guide to Patterns, Colors, and Durability

Are you looking to boost your home’s aesthetic appeal without the high cost and maintenance of natural stone? In the Quad Cities, homeowners are increasingly turning to stamped concrete as the perfect solution for creating beautiful, highly durable outdoor living spaces. At Kelly Designs in Concrete, we see decorative concrete not just as a construction material, but as a medium for artistic expression that dramatically enhances your property’s value and curb appeal.

What Makes Stamped Concrete the Smart Choice for Your Home?

Often referred to as imprinted or textured concrete, stamped concrete is regular concrete that is patterned and colored to resemble natural materials like slate, flagstone, brick, or even wood. This versatility is what makes it a favorite among Quad Cities homeowners seeking customization and a high-end look without the high-end price tag.

Durability That Lasts Decades

When it comes to longevity, concrete is already a winner. Stamped concrete offers all the structural integrity of a traditional concrete slab—it resists cracking, settling, and weed growth better than individual pavers or natural stone installations. With proper installation and routine maintenance, your new decorative concrete surface will stand up to Iowa’s unpredictable weather, from summer heat to freezing winter cycles, for decades. We ensure that every project meets high standards for quality, offering a lasting solution for your driveway, patio, or walkway.

Customization: Patterns, Colors, and Textures

The real magic of stamped concrete lies in its ability to mimic virtually any material. Whether you desire the rustic elegance of a fieldstone pattern for your patio or the sleek, modern look of a seamless slate texture for your pool deck, the options are extensive. This ability to customize allows us to match the finish to your home’s existing architecture and landscape design, creating a truly unified outdoor space.

• Popular Patterns: Slate, flagstone, brick, cobblestone, and realistic wood plank patterns.
• Color Options: Pigments are mixed into the concrete or applied to the surface, allowing for deep, rich colors or subtle, natural tones like earthy browns, grays, and terracottas. We can even use multiple colors to achieve a mottled, authentic look.

Key Applications for Decorative Concrete in Davenport, IA

While the utility of plain concrete is limited, decorative concrete elevates its function into a feature. Here are the areas where stamped concrete shines the brightest:

Stamped Concrete Patios: Your Backyard Oasis

A patio is the heart of your outdoor living area, and a stamped concrete patio provides the perfect foundation for entertaining and relaxation. Unlike basic slab concrete, a patterned and colored patio instantly becomes a focal point. Imagine a gorgeous, slate-stamped surface that ties perfectly into your landscaping—it’s an instant upgrade to your backyard’s aesthetic appeal and functionality. We specialize in designing patios that perfectly fit the flow and use of your specific outdoor space.

Walkways and Sidewalks: Setting the Stage

First impressions matter, and your home’s walkways are the first surfaces guests encounter. Replacing a cracked, plain sidewalk with a stunning, textured walkway dramatically enhances your property’s first impression. Using a brick or cobblestone pattern for these high-traffic areas provides visual interest and a slip-resistant surface, making them safer and more beautiful.

Pool Decks: Safety Meets Style

For pool owners, safety is paramount. Stamped concrete pool decks offer superior slip resistance when compared to many other materials, especially when a proper texture and sealer is applied. Furthermore, the material can be colored with lighter, heat-reflective pigments, making the surface cooler on bare feet during those hot Iowa summers. Patterns that mimic natural stone are particularly popular around water features for their sophisticated and resort-like feel.

The Stamped Concrete Process: From Design to Final Seal

Achieving a beautiful stamped concrete finish requires expertise, precision, and high-quality materials. When you choose Kelly Designs in Concrete, you are trusting a local, experienced Quad Cities concrete contractor committed to quality at every step:

1. Design Consultation: We start by reviewing your space, discussing your vision, and helping you select the ideal pattern, texture, and color combination that suits your home and budget.
2. Pouring and Coloring: After proper site preparation, the concrete is poured. A base color is applied, often by mixing pigments directly into the concrete mix.
3. The Stamping Phase: This is where the magic happens. While the concrete is still pliable, we apply a release agent (which often serves as a secondary color) and then press specialized mats into the surface to create the desired texture and pattern.
4. Curing and Sealing: After the concrete has cured, we clean the surface and apply a high-quality concrete sealer. This final step is crucial as it protects the surface from moisture, UV rays, and wear, locking in the vibrant color and ensuring long-term concrete restoration and maintenance are simplified.

Maintenance and Longevity for Your Decorative Surface

One of the best features of stamped concrete is its low maintenance requirement. Unlike natural stone that may require specialized cleaning or individual pavers that shift and allow weed growth, a stamped concrete surface is virtually seamless. The most important step for preserving your investment is reapplying the high-quality concrete sealer every few years (typically 2-4 years, depending on traffic and exposure). This process is straightforward and keeps the surface looking vibrant, protecting it from moisture and fading.

A well-maintained surface not only looks better but also delays the need for major concrete replacement. We always advise homeowners to use mild detergents for cleaning and avoid harsh chemicals or snow-clearing salts that can compromise the sealer.

Ready to Elevate Your Davenport Home?

Choosing the right material for your exterior surfaces is a significant investment, and decorative concrete delivers on both aesthetics and value. It’s an effective way to achieve the look of high-end materials like slate or brick at a more accessible cost and with far greater durability.

At Kelly Designs in Concrete, we pride ourselves on being the local Quad Cities experts, providing meticulous attention to detail from the initial pour to the final sealant application. Our team is dedicated to delivering a seamless, stunning, and enduring result that transforms your outdoor space. If you’re considering a new patio, walkway, or pool deck, choose the reliability and customized beauty of stamped concrete.

Don’t settle for plain concrete when you can have a masterpiece. Contact Kelly Designs in Concrete today to schedule your free estimate and see the beautiful concrete designs we can bring to your home.

Kelly Designs in Concrete

• 5122 West Kimberly Rd, Davenport, IA 52806
• (563) 388-9529
• Website: designsinconcrete.com

Transform Your Garage in One Day with Kelly Designs in Concrete

Imagine walking into your garage tomorrow morning and seeing a smooth, glossy, durable surface that looks brand new. That transformation is exactly what you get with a one-day garage floor coating from Kelly Designs in Concrete. Our Davenport-based team helps homeowners throughout the Quad Cities upgrade dull, cracked, and stained garage floors into clean, beautiful, and long-lasting spaces in just one day.

Why Choose a One-Day Garage Floor Coating?

Let’s be honest — most garages take a beating. Between hot tires, road salt, oil drips, and constant foot traffic, bare concrete can start to look rough fast. A polyaspartic garage floor coating not only hides the damage but protects your slab for years to come. The best part? The entire process takes only one day, so you’re back to using your garage the next morning.

The One-Day Coating Process

Our fast, professional system is built for both beauty and durability. Here’s how we do it:

1. Preparation: We start by grinding and repairing the surface to create a perfect foundation. This step ensures maximum adhesion and prevents peeling or bubbling down the road.
2. Base Coat: A high-performance polyurea base coat is applied to create a solid, sealed surface that bonds with the concrete.
3. Decorative Flakes: Colored vinyl flakes are broadcast across the floor for texture, slip resistance, and a stylish finish. You can choose from a variety of blends to match your home.
4. Clear Topcoat: Finally, we apply a polyaspartic topcoat that locks in the flakes, adds UV protection, and gives the floor its signature high-gloss finish.

In less than 24 hours, you’ll have a floor that looks incredible and stands up to everyday wear and tear.

Benefits That Go Beyond Looks

This isn’t just about appearance — it’s about performance and protection. Here’s what sets a Kelly Designs in Concrete garage floor coating apart:

• Fast Installation: Walk or drive on it the very next day.
• Durability: Resistant to impact, abrasion, and chemical spills.
• UV Stability: Won’t yellow or fade under sunlight.
• Easy Maintenance: Simply sweep or mop — no scrubbing or resealing needed.
• Slip Resistant: Textured flake system adds grip for safety.
• Professional Appearance: Instantly boosts your home’s value and curb appeal.

Perfect for More Than Just Garages

One-day floor coatings aren’t just for garages. Kelly Designs in Concrete has installed these tough, attractive surfaces in:

• Basements
• Workshops
• Commercial showrooms
• Warehouses
• Outdoor patios

Any place that needs a durable, low-maintenance, and great-looking floor can benefit from a professional coating system.

Custom Colors and Finishes

Every home is different, so your garage floor should reflect your style. Choose from a wide range of flake color blends — from subtle neutrals to bold contrast tones. Whether you prefer modern gray and white or a warm earth tone mix, we’ll help you find the perfect look for your space.

Locally Installed by Experts You Can Trust

When you work with Kelly Designs in Concrete, you’re working with a team that has decades of experience in concrete finishing and coatings. We’ve been serving Davenport, Bettendorf, Rock Island, and Moline homeowners for over 40 years. Our crew knows how to get the details right, from prep work to final polish, so your floor lasts for years without issues.

How Our One-Day Garage Floor Coating Compares

Feature	Kelly Designs in Concrete	DIY Epoxy Kits
Installation Time	One Day	3–4 Days
Durability	Up to 15 years	1–2 years
UV Resistance	Won’t fade or yellow	Prone to discoloration
Maintenance	Simple cleaning	Frequent touch-ups
Finish Options	Wide variety of custom flakes	Limited colors

Boost Your Home’s Value Instantly

A finished garage is one of the most overlooked home upgrades — yet it makes a big impact on resale value and daily use. Buyers love clean, well-finished garages, and you’ll love how easy it is to keep your floor looking spotless.

Get a Free Estimate

Ready to give your garage a serious upgrade? Kelly Designs in Concrete offers free on-site estimates throughout the Quad Cities. Our experts will walk you through color options, explain the process, and schedule your installation around your availability.

Schedule your free estimate today or call us at (563) 388-9529.

Kelly Designs in Concrete
5122 West Kimberly Rd
Davenport, IA 52806

Beautiful. Durable. Done in a day.